Managing Your Cash Flow — Step 2

Once you know how much you’re spending each month, and on what (see Managing Your Cash Flow — Step 1), the next step is to create a plan to make sure your money is doing what you want it to do. Some people might call this a budget, but if that sounds boring and/or difficult, call it your spending plan.

There are lots of ways to create a spending plan, but I like to do what I call the draw-down budget. Allocate your money to the most important things first, the ones you have to pay: rent/mortgage, utilities, phone bills, etc.; and those you want to commit money to: emergency savings, retirement savings, holiday savings, and so on.

bell-peppers
Bell Peppers by Paul Brennan; CC0

You may want to set aside an amount of money for groceries and put it in the “have to pay” section; any money you spend beyond that is for treats or extras.

Once you’ve figured out how much money you HAVE to pay out each month, the rest goes to your variable spending. You’ll need to track it digitally or with pen/paper or use the cash method, but once your variable amount is used up, that’s it — no more spending for the rest of the month.

There are several advantages to the draw-down budget:

  • It’s easy to use.
  • All your bills get paid.
  • You commit money to savings.
  • You don’t spend more than you make.

I use a draw-down budget myself and have developed several categories of spending. If you use spreadsheets or would like to learn how, and how to use one to create a budget, contact me. I’ll be happy to share mine with you.

 

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Kids learn the value of money

I would like to think that we did right by our children when it comes to knowing the value of money. At the very young adult stage, they are both going to university and still living at home with us. While I like to think it’s because they love us so much, the reality is that it’s very expensive to live in this city, and they’re saving money by staying here rent and grocery free.

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Victoria, where rent is not cheap

(Both of them have told us — in a nice way — that they would move out in an instant if they had the money!)

As they were growing up, we tried not to buy them too much (after the very young child stage — when we got a bit carried away with Christmas presents). At a certain point, we gave them allowance and told them they would have to buy their own toys. Their purchases were always greased with the generous birthday money that arrived from relatives. Around the age of 14, we started giving them a clothing allowance and told them that they would have to buy their own clothes (have you ever tried to buy clothes for a teenager?) When high school ended, so did their allowance.

On this topic, I was heartened to read 21 Things You Should Make Your Kids Pay For.  I agree with most of it, but I chose to pay for my kids to do extracurricular activities and school travel. All of us in the family tend to be introverted and mostly would prefer to stay at home given the choice, and I wanted the kids to expand their horizons.

In terms of their university costs, we have a deal with the kids. Rather than them taking out student loans, we will lend them the money. We all sign the papers (even the kid who’s not taking out loan) so that everyone knows how much is owed. The amount is noted on our statement of net worth as an asset. So far this has resulted in minimal loans and a real commitment by them to make sure they’re getting value for their money.

Getting a handle on your spending

One of the first steps I will take with you as a finances coach is to get an idea of your recent spending. If you buy everything on credit card and you bank online (like we do), then it’s reasonably straightforward. You can use a spreadsheet like Excel or Google Sheets to keep your information organized. Most credit card sites allow you to download information in a .csv (comma separated value) file. You can open these directly in the spreadsheet program. You may have to fiddle a bit with it to clean up the data, or you can use it as is.

The numbers for the amounts that you’ve spent will show up in one column. You can use one of the first few rows to label your spending categories, such as groceries, restaurant, insurance, etc. Keep all of your amounts in that one column, and copy and paste each number to its appropriate category, trying to stay on the same line, if possible. Because I had so many categories, my sheet stretched past one screen going sideways, which made it a little difficult to keep amounts on the correct line.

Capture
I cleaned up my spreadsheet by deleting everything but the business name and amount. I also shaded every second row to make it easier to put the category amount on the correct line — although that doesn’t really matter.

Once you’ve categorized everything, total up the data. Find the total of the month’s spending (making sure you only include purchases, not payments), and find the total for each category. As a cross-check to make sure you’ve included everything in the categories, find the total of all of the categories. It should match your total for the month.

If you do that for three months, you’ll have a good idea of your recent spending. You should also be able to start identifying spending anomalies, purchases that only happen once in a long time, or may never happen again.

If you do a lot of transactions by cash rather than credit card, then you’ve got an extra bit of work ahead of you, and you may not be able to track your three-month historical spending unless you’ve kept all of your receipts. If you don’t keep receipts, you may have to start — and look forward to organizing your spending over the next three months. But that’s something I can help you out with, too.

How important is a budget?

Do you have a budget? Do you stick to it — most of the time?

As a finances coach, these are probably among the first few questions that I’ll ask you, along with some other “big” questions, like the following:

  • Do you know how much your take-home pay is?
  • Do you know the total value of your assets?
  • Do you have an emergency fund to cover your costs if you’re out of work for six months?

I think that having a budget is fairly important. The process of creating one will answer a lot of questions for you, even if you don’t continue to track your expenses and record them. When my husband decided to retire in 2014, we wanted to know if we could afford it, as his retirement income would be considerably less than what he was making while at work. To create a monthly budget, I took the last three months’ worth of credit card statements (we do everything by credit card) and categorized each amount. The average of the amounts in each category became our budget number. We haven’t concerned ourselves so much with tracking our numbers each month and making sure we’re sticking to our budget, but I do a three-month retroactive checkup about once per year.

Partial budget
We use Google Sheets to create and maintain our budgets

Recently I’ve noticed that we’re spending a lot more on groceries than budgeted for. It has a lot to do with the low Canadian dollar and produce purchased from the US, but also our two teenage/young adult children who are still living with us — they eat a lot! However, we also throw out food, a lot more than we should. So we decided to start tracking our grocery and restaurant spending to see if we could keep it within the budgeted amount.

We’re now 22 days into February, and so far, so good, but it’s close. We’re 76% of the way through the month, and 74% of the way through our budgeted amount. We’ll have to keep a close eye on our food spending for the next week and make an effort to use up the food that’s already in the house. This should be interesting as we have visitors coming to stay with us for two days and a restaurant meal with friends booked for the weekend!